The full article is available online. Sadly, no English version is available, but our Russian fans should check it out! xx
There are perhaps two types of shopping. The first leaves one carrying clothes in plastic bags with handles that leave grooves like giant lifelines in palms. The second, which can be more preferable (and yet extremely rare), involves unwrapping crackling layers of tissue paper to find some gorgeous item cocooned within. This was my slightly delicious experience when it came to buying from sustainable brand Goodone.
This label, with an ethos of “innovatively combining new British and sustainable fabrics with reclaimed textiles”, had come to my attention following twitter contact last year. To snip the thread of a rambling tale short, the result was a chance to borrow and style three items from the upcycled label for my blog, and following the success of the post, to buy the jumpsuit I had waxed lyrical about. Several emails and a set of measurements later, I received the much-awaited package – the contents of which I shall proudly wear at every possible opportunity.
The success of Goodone, alongside other brands including Henrietta Ludgate and Junky Styling (all three featured in the Estethica display space at the last London Fashion Week), demonstrates the success that sustainable brands can and continue to achieve. However, this relatively new and still-growing (but very green!) offshoot of the fashion industry has further challenges ahead. One such problem is the general perception of ‘ethical’ – a word that calls to mind nettle couture and hemp waistcoats faster than one can take a breath to dispute the judgment. Of course, the reality of ethical is as far is as far removed from dreadlocks and shapeless skirts as the North is from the South Pole.
Another issue is the need to reach a mainstream audience, so as to boost sales and raise awareness of these most worthy of businesses. Here I return to Goodone, who have produced lines for big high street and online stores, with their ‘basics’ line retailing at roughly the same prices as the outlets themselves. This approach – one of integrating rather than separating – is both canny and admirable. When horror stories emerge regularly about the working conditions of those in developing countries, or the environmental (and thus health) implications of the dyes used to achieve the perfect fabric shade, it is heartening to know of viable alternatives. But those alternatives must be both seen and heard by consumers if they are to make a difference.
One reaction to these revelations (and one that I practice as much as I preach) is to visit the local charity shop or vintage stall. To buy second hand clothes is a brilliant way to not only donate to charities who always appreciate extra funds, but also to continue the cycle of re-using and re-styling garments that might otherwise have ended up in landfill. The reasonable prices and wealth of possibility have resulted, for me, in a wardrobe that is 75% made up from various second hand sources. However, alongside harnessing the multitude of resources of the past through charity shops, it is likewise important to buy from sustainable brands and producers so as to ensure a socially and environmentally sounder future.
Well it’s that time of the year again when thoughts turn to Christmas parties, evenings with friends, New Years Eve and we find ourselves asking ‘what will I wear?’
You could pop down to your local identi-kit high street and buy something ‘off the peg’ and you may see your friend in the same thing or …you could discover some amazing outfits, all available on-line, clothes with a story behind them and designed by people who care about how they are made – ethical evening wear. And because they’re available on-line you can shop 24/7 regardless of the crowds, snow or rain, sitting in your PJs with a mug of hot chocolate… what more could a girl want?
So, to save you time, we’ve tracked down a selection of glamourous LBDs and a couple of options if you don’t fancy a dress this year! We hope you enjoy the pictures as much as we did shooting them – in the stunning grounds of Goodenough College, London.
Taken in front of the Christmas tree in the grand hall, from left to right: long dress, Outsider; top and skirt, Goodone, long black/white dress, Tammam; long dress, Henrietta Ludgate, short ‘flapper’ style dress, vintage, by Juno says hello.
Antoinette, finished wrapping the presents takes a well deserved rest wearing a magnificent dress by Junky. If you want to make a real entrance or have an extra special occasion to attend, this is The dress to choose.
The lovely Elli is wearing a top and skirt by Henrietta Ludgate. Livia Firth wore the same outfit to Henrietta’s shop opening and is beautifully timeless.
Meg wears the shorter version of a dress by Camilla Norbeck. The gold earrings are handmade by Kate Rodgers.
An ethereal evening dress by Tammam in black silk chiffon over white cotton.
Rachel relaxes in a Junky all in one outfit with matching jacket. Although the word ‘jacket’ really doesn’t do the design justice. Rachel is also wearing a necklace made by Batacuda. Batucada have created a whole new generation of environmentally friendly jewellery, which has a tattoo-like appearance that is both elegant and practical. The handmade jewellery is made in Paris, from an eco-plastic designed to ‘hug’ your skin. It actually adapts to the contours of your body, remembering your shape for a perfect fit. Each design draws inspiration from nature, using organic shapes and natural colours. Batucada jewellery is durable, flexible, waterproof, non-allergenic and lightweight, so perfect for everyday!
Here, Antoinette wears the long version of the Camilla Norbeck dress. We all thought this was a stunning dress, with a beautiful dress that could be worn time after time. It is made from recycled polyester.
Gina wears an embellished lace vintage dress from Juno Says Hello.
A rather sexy little dress by Junky which can be dressed up or down.
www.ellageorgia.com Has provided all the lovely jewellery shown (apart from the pearl and white collar necklaces which are vintage).
www.daisyhillltd.com Daisy Hill eco-boutique are suppliers of organic clothing for women; allowing you to purchase luxury and ethical clothing at a competitive price.
www.goodone.co.uk goodone (london) is an award winning sustainable fashion company which creates innovative directional recycled clothing.
www.junkystyling.co.uk Junky is an innovative design-led label. All garments are made from the highest quality second hand clothing, which is deconstructed, re-cut and completely transformed.
www.junosayshello.com Juno Says Hello is an online boutique dedicated to the finest selection of luxury vintage dresses.
www.outsiderfashion.com Ethical renewable clothing designs renewable clothing designed with longevity and style. Sustainable fabrics and Clothing.
www.tammam.co.uk Tammam designs and produces ethical, sustainable, organic environmentally friendly and stylish wedding and couture gowns.
Photographer – Ted Chan – www.ftbear.com
Special thanks to Goodenough College for the use of their beautiful grounds and our 5 models: Elli and Rachel (from Eclipse Model Management) Antoinette, Gina and Meg.
Hair & Make-up: Silvia Saccinto & Cornelia Page
Posted by rebecca on Monday, December 19, 2011
Based out of a small studio in East London, Goodone creates practical and progressive clothing. I interned with the label a few years ago, and have since seen it develop into an award-winning ethical fashion force. Goodone offers seasonal collections (frequently a part of London Fashion Week) in addition to an online-exclusive Basics line and a bespoke fitting service.
I was thrilled to get back in touch with Nin Castle, the brand’s founder and creative director, to discuss her views of sustainability, fashion, and design.
How did you get started in sustainable fashion?
My interested started at university in Bristol, I wanted my final collection to be sustainably sourced. I had no money, so I made everything out of recycled fabrics. I realized that I was getting really good quality textiles and really sustainable fibres. The fabric has already been used, there is no strain put on the environment by using fabrics that already exist. For me it is the most sustainable fibre around.
What is your design process?
For us designing is definitely a two prong attack. It’s what we want to make and what we can make with the fabrics that we get a hold of. It comes from both directions, but design is always number one. We want to produce sustainable products that are strong, sexy and really really wearable. There’s no point making something that doesn’t look good. Our basics line its about making clothes that you want to wear on a day-to-day basis.
What textiles do you use?
When we buy stuff from the UK, it’s British wool, modals and fibres from textile recycling factories. We’re looking into importing high-tech sustainable fibres and not making rules for ourselves. The Goodone Basics collection is a mix of end of roll fabrics with reclaimed, its also a good chance for us to reuse fabrics from previous collections.
How would you like to see sustainable fashion develop?
Brands should use reclaimed fabrics as much as possible. It would make a big dent in the environmental impact of the industry. It’s very difficult to use entirely reclaimed fabric, and that’s why we don’t do it anymore, but it is very possible to use a percentage of reclaimed fabrics.
People need to buy less, but better. We need to buy half the amount of clothes for double the amount of money. Nobody wants to hear it, but its the truth. Consumers have demanded a cheaper and faster product and the industry has supplied it. Now consumers massively undervalue clothes. Buying cheaply made clothes isn’t value for money so consumers are worse off in the end.
Your favourite way to relax?
Desert Island Discs in the bath. I suppose I’m a bit nosey, so I find it really interesting.
To get your hands on some of Goodone’s goodies, visit their online shop at www.goodone.co.uk. Join their Facebook page to receive news of sample sales and studio events!
Sophie Caldecott trawls the city to unearth London’s most stylish ethical fashion boutiques and gift shops.
By Sophie Caldecott, Style and Then Some
11:12AM GMT 16 Dec 2011
It’s hard to find shops that are both stylish and ethical, especially in a big city like London, with so many places vying for your attention and not enough time to explore all the options. And when it comes down to it, what does ‘ethical’ actually mean? The Ethical Fashion Forum defines ethical fashion as “an approach to the design, sourcing and manufacture of clothing which maximises benefits to people and communities while minimising impact on the environment.” It can be difficult for small businesses to cover all the bases, and most ethical shops will have a particular focus, whether that’s sustainability, supporting local talent and skills, or social justice in developing countries. Luckily, there are plenty of options across London – if you know where to look. Here’s our pick of London’s best ethical clothes and gift shops.
In Bloom London, Portobello Road
Best for: sexy, beautiful underwear and womenswear with more than a touch of French chic
In Bloom London’s cool and chic interior. Image: In Bloom London
On Portobello Road, Emily Huc’s pretty boutique In Bloom Londonshowcases her range of underwear alongside other ethical womenswear labels. Other brands stocked in the shop include Goodone, who specialise in stylish upcycled jumpers, Beaumont Organic, Bibico’s Fairtrade-certified knitwear, and EKO, producers of stylish Yoga wear in a sustainable bamboo fabric. Prices range from £9 to £150. Upcycled jewellery by Caipora is also available, alongside homewear and locally produced art. Emily’s own line is just as covetable, and impressively innovative too: the underwear range interweaves organic cotton with the pioneering lyocell fibre, a sustainable fabric made from wood pulp in Austria.
In Bloom London, Unit 8, Portobello Green Designers, 281 Portobello Road, London W10 5TZ. Tel: 020 7565 0493
Opening hours: Mon-Wed open upon appointment (please call 07503190095 to arrange); Thurs-Fri 11-6; Sat 10:30-6
Danaqa, Westbourne Park
Best for: beautiful leather handbags and striking jewellery with a story to tell
Danaqa in Westbourne Park. Image: S&TS
Power couple David Thomas and Nadia Manning-Thomas openedDanaqa in 2011. Their combined experience working in micro finance and agricultural development abroad gave them the know-how to source their products in a responsible way and to maximise the positive impact their business makes for small-scale producers. Beaded necklaces were made by a group of women who suffered domestic abuse in Nepal, and all the leather bags are made from off-cuts from the food industry that would have otherwise been wasted. To those who might question how ethical it is to stock leather products at all, David points out that around 85 per cent of families in Ethiopia keep livestock for food, and paying them for their leftover skins is another valuable way of helping improve their quality of life.
Danaqa, 282 Westbourne Park Road, London W11 1EH. Tel: 020 7792 3466
Opening hours: Mon-Fri 10:30-6:30; Sat 9:30-7; Sun 11-5
Best for: quirky gifts and homewear, and a large range of traditional textiles from around the world
Ganesha’s vibrant shop front. Image: Ganesha
Founded in 1995, Ganesha is one of the most well-established fair trade shops around. Stocking reclaimed silk scarves by Coral Seed, vegetarian soap by One Village, party plates made from 100 per cent biodegradable leaves, bags made from rice sacks, as well as colourful bunting made from old silk saris, Ganesha is a goldmine for unique gifts. Providing an eclectic mix of homeware and accessories, it is everything you would expect from a fair trade shop, packaged in a fun and accessible way.
Ganesha, 3 + 4 Gabriel’s Wharf London SE1 9PP. Tel: 020 7928 3444
Opening hours: Tues-Fri 11:30-6; Sat-Sun 12-6
123 Bethnal Green Road, Bethnal Green
Best for: East End cool and up-and-coming British talent, irreverent and unusual gifts, recycled textiles
123 Bethnal Green Road champions local designers. Image: LMB & Co.
Owned by textile recycling company LMB & Co,east London boutique that champions local artists and designers. The in-house brand, 123, is made entirely from off-cuts and recycled fabrics at LMB & Co’s recycling faculty in Canning Town. A collaboration between the company and local designers mean various capsule collections will be launched throughout 2012, with recycled fabrics being used to create unique and sustainable pieces. A local bookbinder, for example, has been commissioned to cover notebooks and diaries with vintage maps, newspapers and recycled fabric. Ethical Fashion Forum Innovation Award winner Ada Zanditon’s jewellery is also available, as is honey produced by a local bee keeper.
123 Bethnal Green Road, 123 Bethnal Green Road E2 7DG. Tel: 020 7729 8050
Opening hours: Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat 12-7; Thurs 12-8; Sun 11-6
Komodo, Covent Garden
Best for: funky knitwear and handmade jewellery
If you like high street brands such as Fat Face and French Connection, you’ll love Komodo, a fair trade clothing brand for men and women which was established in 1988. Located a few streets away from Covent Garden Tube station, this little shop is crammed full of good quality, ethical and contemporary designs in such bright colours that it’s hard to believe they’re all made using natural dyes. Komodo’s factory in Kathmandu, Nepal, champions human rights and shows the rest of the fashion industry how it should be done. Nunu, who runs the shop, buys semi-precious stones and other materials from her travels in Nepal, Tibet and India, and makes jewellery on site. My favourite finds were an elegantly fitting woolen work-wear dress with a graphic print, and a snug bright turquoise patterned gilet with a fake fur-trimmed hood. Prices range from around £20 for t-shirts to around £130 for coats and jackets.
50a Earlham Street, London WC2H 9LA. Tel: 020 7836 5445
Opening hours: Mon & Wed-Sat 12-7; Sun 12-6; Tues closed
Sophie Caldecott is one of the team at the Style and Then Some blog. Written by four London-dwelling girls, it covers fashion and culture, with a focus on what’s going on in the capital. You can follow S&TS on Twitter@Style_thensome
Founded in 2006, Goodone is no new kid on the block. But as the much-needed ‘up-cycling’ trend grows internationally, we wanted to show our appreciation for one of London’s original ‘reclaimed to wear’ labels.
Goodone had already collaborated with the subversive fashion designer Noki, launched a manufacturing partnership with the HEBA Women’s Project and was in demand as far afield as Tokyo, when they were shortlisted for the RE:Fashion New Designer of the Year Award in 2008. It was then that I had the pleasure of meeting the independent label’s creative director and founder, Nin Castle. Her edgy figure-flattering designs proved that conscious couture had no excuse for compromising on style.
During the Anya Hindmarch “I’m Not a Plastic Bag” craze, Goodone released its edgier “Do I look like a f@cking plastic bag?” version. (I still cherish mine and it’s always good for raising an eyebrow or two at Waitrose). Since then, Goodone has launched a capsule range for ASOS, designed a limited edition bag for Puma, created a recycled collection for Tesco and made high street fashionistas ‘hot up’ over reclaimed to wear from the rails of Topshop.
The heart behind the label, which keeps both environmental and social impact high on the agenda, powered an impressive collaboration with Liberty, Amnesty, WWF, Greenpeace, Shelter and No Sweat, upcycling old campaign t-shirts. This was followed by the production of a limited edition dress for the Fashion Targets Breast Cancer campaign.
Nin and her co-designer/sourcing director, Clare Farrell (since 2009), now teach sustainable fashion at St Martins. They’re clearly succeeding in their mission “not to stand apart from the mainstream fashion industry, rather to achieve positive change from within.” The designers follow a method that is “informed by the use of recycled fabrics, but not restrained by it”. I think every conscious stylista will agree that these leading ladies deserve to be celebrated.
Check out the Goodone AW11 collection, featuring reclaimed silks and leather.